Paris départ: Pretoria

So, unexpectedly I got this job offer in Pretoria, South Africa. My Parisian friends were happy, they would want to come visit me on vacation if I did decide to move. My Australian and British friends were less enamored….Pretoria ? Are you mad ? This because they have very strong idea that there is nothing but crime in any South African city. I thought that too, until I went and visited Pretoria and Johannesburg myself. First, I had to spend more than 10 hours on an A380 to reach Johannesburg from Paris. Arrived at Tambo airport, I was impressed by the size of the airport and the variety of airlines companies that serve JNB. The immigration was rapid and painless (contrary to what people tell me that everything is slower in Africa including South Africa). But wait, even though I made it out in 10 minutes to the public part of the airport, I was probably too quick in saying things are very speedy in South Africa. I had to change money. This took forever as you had to stay in line that barely moved, and then, for mysterious reasons, there are complicated paperwork involved in changing just 50 euros ! First I had to complete a form of which the agent made copies for me and to keep. Next, my passport had to be photocopied. Next they had to go somewhere to get the cash in Rand for my measly 50 euros. All in all, about half hour for the transaction. But I walked out of there richer with Rand. Next the drive to Pretoria which was speedy since it was past rush hours (apparently trafic is horrible during rush hours). You may be thinking you’re in Los Angeles than in Johannesburg SA. Stretches of freeways cutting hills that are somewhat dry (it was end of winter), but all very modern and California looking. Half hour later I arrived in Pretoria. This is where I noticed that I was perhaps not in Los Angeles. Streets with trees that look tranquil (the streets, not the trees), but you don’t get to see the houses as many had tall cément fences with electronic protection. My BB was a beautiful grand house with a front yard that I associate with rich English homes. But you’d never know it from the street. To enter, I had to activate an electrical button that came with my keys to open the electronic gate. And when you sit in the front garden, you cannot see the street because of the fences. This gives you a feeling of being separated from the others somewhat, no connection to the outside world like. I wanted to go downtown that evening, but the south africans I met scared me enough to make me abandon the plan (they said I would never make it back if I go to downtown by myself in the evening !). I walked instead to a mall not far from my BB. Malls seem to be the center of activities where you do your shopping, go to cafés or restaurants. The same in Johannesburg (just an hour drive from Pretoria). Wanting to walk around, the people at the hôtel showed their horror réaction when I told them I was going to walk. They offered to call a taxi when I said I would hail a taxi on the street (which evoked again collective horror). I was beginning to suspect that these people were scaring me more than necessary. So, armed with an American friend who also knew no better, we took off from Rosebank using the ultramodern Gautrain (High speed train) to Sandton. Again, a mall with great shops, restaurant, cinémas etc. But I was becoming malled out and wanted just to walk around where there are shops and cafés etc. But that was not to be, things seem to revolve around mall where you drive to and do your things. We took the train back, crossing many many people on the streets who all seemed to be black and who gave us friendly smiles. We made it back to the hôtel in one pièce and started thinking that maybe I should listen less and just do what I want to do as long as I am being vigilant. Like I would be vigilant when I walk around in Los Angeles, San Francisco or Sydney !!