Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Pari(s) Obama

Pari(s) Obama

Pari in French (written like Paris without an S and is pronounced the same way) means bet. And we are betting, with a lot of confidence I might add, on Obama to change things, today being his inauguration as the President of the US.

The night of the election (it was night in Paris) was probably one of the few times when I wished that I had been in Los Angeles or New York rather than Paris. If there is something that I thought came across in his message, it was that we should look beyond the color of the skin when we look at a man or a woman (but also beyond their faith, their sexual orientation and origin). But, of course, who could at that moment forget for a nanosecond the historical significance of the event : the first African American ever to lead the US, and with it, the world.

Given the history of the US , I did not believe until the very last minute that ‘the people” would actually elect Obama as President . Did not dare even to imagine that the US was ready for that for fear of jinxing what I hoped and fuelled to a large degree by the fear that Palin could become, eventually, President of the US if John McCain was to be elected. That would probably be the only scenario I could imagine that is worse than the US under Bush!

The significance of having a Black president could not be emphasized enough. Here is a person who could heal wounds that might have been healing but still leave traces in forms and shapes that are so far removed we may not even think they could be related. But now, imagine all the African, Asian and Hispanic American boys and girls who could, with firm belief rather than ephemeral fantasy, dream of becoming a US President. In his speech Obama talked of confidence….and I think that that is the one thing he has given us all, of whatever colors but especially those of color in multicultural societies, in the US and beyond their borders. A color that at times could stigmatize us by sight alone is finally starting to fade....as Obama said, hopefully, we could all find that common humanity not too far below the colors...

Paris : Race, Ethnic and Racism ?

Race and ethnicity and Racism are subjects that one must inevitably face in multicultural societies such as France, Australia and the United States. Especially for someone like me who is not exactly snow white.

At a personal level, I am somehow much more aware of my race (I am of Asian origin) here in France than in either Australia or the US (despite the fact that in any forms in the US, I often have to indicate my ethnicity, whereas in France NEVER, as this is illegal…you would think this would prime my ethnicity more in the US than in France, but No in fact). Having just returned to Paris from the US, I was this time struck by how often we see Asian and Black and Hispanic faces on tv as anchors, reporters or occupying big important positions in the US cities such as Los Angeles and San Francisco. This is quite rare in France (in fact, often when we see a non white face on tv, my bet would be that is about riots in banlieu (i.e., hot areas in the periphery of Paris) or protestors asking for better government housing.
The same thing I notice at work. Though many of the people we have to deal with (ie. people that we serve in my profession) recently include many more minorities, the number of my colleagues who are non white could be counted in one hand…Yet, I think it is important that we reflect the population that we serve (if only for identification and activating possibilities among those we serve at work….sort of like Obama inspiring young blacks to aim to become US President). And indeed having a black anchor on a French tv still made big news here not too long ago.

This seems in contrast with other aspects of of race relations found in these countries. In Paris, we seem to see a lot more inter racial couples than, say, Los Angeles or New York. And many kids you could tell are métisses (of different race parents). And in fact, the mixed racial couples here seem to not have the self-conscious look that mixed race couples I have noticed in LA, for instance, do (that is, they are conscious that they still attract attention).

Stil, I feel like I have noticed more racism towards me in Paris…if we define racism as being treated differently because of your skin color. In the US or Australia being Asian often means that you’re perceived as hard-working or intelligent and that you’re probably a professional. In France, people often assume that I do not earn enough money, for instance, to apply to rent an apartment, or that I probably have the papers of someone else who is dead (Rumors that in Chinatown they never report when a person dies, but give the papers of the person to a newcomer to use). And of course they never assume that I am French (how many times have people asked me: What is your nationality (yes, nationality, not origin)?). But bizarrely, this racism does not always or only come from whites. Indeed, I could feel racism from others who are not white …what’s maddening is that they treat the whites better than they treat other non-whites. Hm, do I smell colonisalism still here?

(An) American(S) in Paris

We have always known that the french has very ambivalent attitude towards America (meaning the US) and Americans. If they copy American “culture” or simply all things American (tv programmes, how they dress especially the young) they would be the last to admit that they admire America and things American. They might tell you that Americans are superficial, that in their practicality and cheerfulness they are naïve (in France, in contrast, nothing is simple and everything is complicated), that their optimism is ignorance. But secretly, they would wish to spend less time running around to get anything done here, and yes they could probably use a dash of optimism to put a smile on their face.

But all that was forgotten the night Barack Obama got elected. I was extremely surprised to see that all the tv stations in France were giving direct results as they came in with comments and discussion and explanations (the election system being different between France and the US). And what’s more surprising, many of the French actually stayed up to watch (many were bleary eyed the next day!), or are in bars and in gatherings with friends to follow the election. I did get invitations to attend certain bars frequented by Americans, but these come from Americans with whom I am in contact in Paris….to see French people do the same thing was incredible! This is especially true of black French who seems to have adopted Obama as a symbol of all people of color and not only of Black Americans. In African bars or bars frequented by Black French, the party was on as soon as it looked like Obama was going to be elected.

I myself was intermittently on the phone with friends until the wee hour of the morning (because of the time difference, we could only be sure Obama would win nearing dawn Paris time). But many of these friends were French people with no American connection whatsoever! They were just as excited and moved to learn that Obama finally made it a reality for a Black American to be president. They also admitted that despite their méfiance of the US, they must admit that this kind of historical event could only happen in the US and are hard-pressed to imagine the same thing in today’s France. Never had I felt such connection to everyone in Paris….at least for that night, many Parisians were American!
And my American friends living in France all sighed in relief ….all thinking the same thought: hopefully the French would like us (again) now. …

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Paris secrets: Morning has broken in my neighborhood outside the ghetto

As I have said elsewhere, I was rather out of sorts in term of my gayness having left my hood in the Marais (Paris 4th arrodissement, known as the gay neighbourhood).
However, having lived in my new neighbourhood for some time now, I have started discovering its secret that is just as exciting if not more. Discovering the layers of gay men who inhabit this beautiful city indeed is a voyage that any new Parisien will have to traverse!

If in the Marais, mornings tend to be dead (we party and stay out late and we think mornings are for the birds), the discovery of early morning sexual escapades in my new neighbourhood had turned me around into a veritable morning person (well ok, still not as cheery as a real morning person, but more willing to wake up just as the sun peeks out than ever before).

I was once in the neighbourhood of Place de Clichy before 9 am (for an appointment there that I could not miss nor reschedule to a more civilized hour). After the appointment, I took a small street to get to the metro station. Walking along, I noticed a man of North African origin standing just outside the entrance to a (his) building. This man was eyeing me as a wolf would be eyeing a roast chicken (or whatever wolf likes to eat in the wild, my experience with wolves are based exclusively on cartoon that I watched as a kid) as I passed by. I stopped and lit a cigarette (an excuse) and noticed him pointedly touch himself in the place where I would like to be touching him! He looked at me intently and opened the building entrance door. I followed him then into the building, and he led me to the basement where he took out his dick and I, being a well brought up kid that I am, got on my knees and went to work.

Another time I was rushing toward the metro station from my house for an early morning conference outside Paris. This man I noticed as we both were crossing the street. The look that he gave me made me stop on the other side and I pretended to look at a window of a store (in fact a drugstore so there is nothing interesting to look at lol). He recrossed the street and asked me for a cigarette. Then, without further ado, he asked me if we could go to my place. Well, I am a professional thus would feel very bad missing the conference I was supposed to attend. So I said we could exchange phone numbers to set up a RDV at a later time. At this point, I must admit that I was that close do just give the conference a miss and take him home. But I stuck it out, a professional that I am, and attended the conference.

The next day, I called him and we met near my house. I learned that he is Egyptian (about 30 years old) and has lived in Paris for 6 years. He came up to my apartment and asked if I could put on a blue film and took off his clothes. We did many interesting things on my little bed on the floor after which I gave him a massage which seemed to have gotten him all hot again.

So, after all this time, I discover the more interesting aspects of my new neighbourhood. Indeed, changes are required (ie. I have to be a morning person), but if it is so worth it, why not? I welcome mornings now and see it not as the moment best spent in bed waiting for the sun to go down again....I look at morning persons differently and have come to recognize the secrets that mornings could hold which are all the more interesting as it is harder to hide in the light than at night. Say hello to the sun and bye bye moon.

Paris Bbrrrrrrrr

This past week (first week of January 2009) has been exceptionally cold in Paris. We have had morning temperature that went as low as -8 celcius. And it did not go high during the day either, stayed negative or at the most 0 degree. And bunches of snow that for once actually stayed on the ground and blanketed Paris in white (well at least on the first few days, after that it was all dirty).

During this time, of course, Parisians who drive went nuts. I remember the accidents they had when there was just an inch of snow that did not even stick to the ground…so you could imagine the slip sliding away of these crazy drivers this time. But what is amazing to me were that huge airports were closed (for example Paris airports and the one in Marseille and other cities). I mean, come on people, this is a modern country and the airport is closed for a bit of snow and cold (I said a bit because I think of NY when I think of snow and cold and what we had was nothing compared to what NY state could get) (And I mean Paris is not exactly in a tropical country!).

Sometimes I had the impression that I was in Romania as the sidewalk was not well salted or cleaned and we all had to walk like old ladies and gents without a cane.
I also went to the university, snagging a ride from a friend. Drove in to the parking lot and got out of the car to realize that the whole lot was covered in ice. So there we were, walking hand in hand as if we just had a hip operation trying to get to our building. Interestingly, the university president’s office had no ice whatsoever in front of it…looked like they just cleaned the president’s office and compound but not the rest of the campus! I guess at times like this we could forget égalité huh?

Despite the cold, hats off to those who marched in protestation of Israel bombardment of the Gaza that results in deaths of civilians. The demonstrators walked from Place Republique (where there is the statue of Marianne) to Place de la Nation.

With the cold, forget about sitting in terraces to smoke and have your coffee (even when there are outside heaters, which by the way, have been protested by members of the green party). Luckily I found a café with a well heated closed off smoking section near the metro Bonne Nouvelle.

And with the cold, forget about outside cruising looking for quick sex with Parisian guys (sorry for the gay tourists who found themselves here at this period). Braving the cold would just be too much for the sensitive Parisian gays who do not like to look bulky in too many layers of clothes let alone sticking their dick out in the icy air. It’s much more elegant to stay home with lots of blanket on top of you (heating in paris apartments is not the strong point of French life) even alone.

Hints for visitors:
Many cafés with heated terraces where you can smoke can be found in le Marais (paris 4th arrodissement e.g., Café Feria or Café Etincelle). Café Bastille Madeleine (metro Grand Boulevard) next to the club Rex also has a well heated terrace. Sex clubs are an alternative to outdoor crusing to avoid the cold (e;g., the Depot, rue aux ours, see my entry for le Marais).

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Paris : Je ne suis pas une femme amoureuse

I evoked the song « Je suis une femme amoureuse » because I think only women (or men) in love could be so certain of who they are: of their feelings (in love), of what they wants from life (the guy she or he was in love with) and of their place (it’s their right to love). This is largely in contrast with how I see my existence after a brief visit to Los Angeles. This town that I think of as home that always gives me good gooey homey feeling as the plane that carried me from elsewhere landed at the airport that most people hate (that I love, by the way), LAX or Los Angeles International Airport.

What gives? Well, this time around, I sort of had to search for this home coming feeling when my A340 landed in the bright LA sun. And instead of acting like a duck take to water (naturally), I actually noticed a few things that made me think, during my stay, that I have become more French than I thought.
For one thing, I did not spontaneously smile to those who served me in stores or in restaurants, for instance. Nor did I take it totally naturally when the person serving me asked how I am doing with a big smile. There was that one second too long of a delay before I put a smile on my face and said Fine. Gosh, everyone was so friendly and so in a good mood! Maybe I was just tired and all this friendliness and good energy were making me realize how tired I was (being tired and still stayed up until the wee hours of the morning is also a Parisian trait!).

And at times I would actually miss things that I have in Paris. The worst was the mornings when I longed for a real coffee prepared by a Parisian brasserie (very strong and black!)…even when I ordered Espresso in LA, it just did not hit the spot. And of course, baguette! Bagette that is still warm that one finds in the boulangerie in the corner of one’s street. Despite the snow white and perfectly shaped bread that I found in LA, I missed my misshapen baguette with butter in the morning. And of course, the lack of places where I could smoke with dignity made me long for the grey cold Paris (though I still thought I could do without the rude Parisians, so not totally Parisian yet I guess).

So, the morning I had to leave, I was in LAX early with more than a teensy positive anticipation of returning to Paris. As I used to do when I lived near LAX, I went to the ramp connecting Tom Bradley Terminal to the AA terminal to watch the planes docked at TBIT. Two Qantas planes were there connected to the terminal via a jetway. I mulled the scene representing in harmony the two countries I used to belong and in my heart I still maybe belong (Australia and USA) and made my way to the terminal to check in for my flight to Paris.
Seated in the plane, I asked myself who I am now….I belong nowhere and yet I belong everywhere. I wish I knew for sure that I belong to one place that I could call home, I wish I knew what my feelings are for each of the places that I could call home for different reasons, I wish I knew what I want…like a woman in love.

Saturday, January 3, 2009

Trip report: Air Tahiti Nui CDG LAX CDG


THIS STORY IS A BIT DIFFERENT TO THE OTHER STORIES, AS THIS ONE IS INTENDED FOR AIRLINERS AND AIRLINE ENTHUSIASTS !!! THUS CONTAINING INFO ABOUT AIRCRAFT TYPE, SEATING, FOOD AND SERVICE AND FLIGHT DETAILS ETC. (MANY AIRPLANE AND AIRLINE ENTHUSIASTS IN THE GAY COMMUNITY I BELIEVE HA HA).

I decided to go to California this Xmas. Checked fares up to three weeks before departure date (23 dec. 2008) and noticed they jumped up and down a lot. The choices available (within my price range) for CDG to LAX were Delta (via Cincinnati or Atlanta or Salt Lake City), United/Swiss combo via Chicago on UA and Zurich on Swiss, or non stop with Air Tahiti Nui. Remembering missed connexions because of winter weather and wishing to try a new airline, I decided to go with Air Tahiti Nui and got the fare for 560 euros taxes included (the fares jumped to 760 and 860 for a while before returning back to 560 euros, which was when I grabbed it, but this fare was still available for some time after. Still wonder how one knows when to buy the tickets to get the best fare, if anyone can give me hints).
On this trip, I also had to get tickets from Orange County to San Francisco, then to Los Angeles, before taking the flight back to Paris. Orange County (SNA) to SFO was too expensive and I chose instead a Southwest flight to Oakland (not too big a deal to get to SF). SFO to LAX I had two LCC choices, Virgin America or Southwest. Unfortunately, the price for Virgin for the hour that I wanted was higher than Southwest, so booked Southwest again. The Virgin fare, however, went down a couple of days later to half of that of Southwest! Bummer!
Took a day to prepare stuff, like finding a TSA approved lock for my backpack (very expensive in Paris), adapter for my phone, printing e tickets and hotel reservations, buying presents and organizing what to bring etc etc.

SO HERE GOES:
Called Air Tahiti Nui Paris to reserve a seat and was told by the nice lady at reservation that it was no longer possible as control has been transferred to airport and will be assigned there (yet their website said this could be done up to 24 or 48 hours before departure and I called 4 days before departure). Was told that I could, however, reserve my return seat. But when I asked for 45K was again told that the said seat was airport-controlled (why would this seat be airport controlled and not the others?), so was given another seat with the idea of changing it again when I check in at the airport.
23/12/2008
Flight TN 0021 Air Tahiti Nui
CDG (Terminal 2A) to LAX (TBIT)
STD: 11H45
STA: 14H35
Equipment: Airbus A340-300 “Moorea”

I was a bit worried on the days leading to departure as Air Tahiti Nui flights were either cancelled (on one of the days, though this might have been known way in advance, taking into account the holiday schedule) or delayed (until 6 am the following day from the 11H45 scheduled departure time! On Dec 22 there are two TN flights to LAX, flight 21 and 421, the latter indicating the delayed flight). So the day of departure, I was up and about early to check the flight status. Got to CDG about 3 and a half hours before departure and check in was already underway. Waited a bit and got the seat that I wanted which was 45K, the last row of the left hand side in a set of two.
The agent also told me that there are lots of pax but that the flight was not full. Indeed, in the end I got the two seats for myself and at least a dozen others have two or three seats to themselves.
The beautiful liveried A340 of Air Tahiti Nui at Gate 51 CDG 2:
We boarded at gate 51 of terminal 2A. Once we boarded though, we waited and waited for apparently two pax who had checked bags in and failed to appear at the boarding gate (I always wonder about these kinds of pax…what happened to them?). Their bags unloaded, we were on our way at 11H50 for the 11 hours 10 minutes scheduled flying time to LAX.
Inside the plane, it was very refreshing with the blue color seats and the flight crew who seem to dress in a manner less stiff than other companies. After talking to several people prior to the flight, I did have high expectation regarding the friendliness of the crew, but actually for this flight it was as you would expect from Asian airlines and no more (the flight back, however, very much conformed to my expectations re friendliness of the crew).
Interior of the A340 of Air Tahiti Nui :
We took off at 12H04 after a 50 seconds roll. The crew distributed amenity kits consisting of socks, eyemask, and earplugs (liked the earplugs that sort of hang on each ear individually) as well as menu.

Y seats on TN (Recaro) are extremely comfortable with, I think, a 33 inch pitch. The A340 in TN colors I thought was beautiful, the interior fresh and the crew fine (they changed clothes a couple of times and dress at some point in Tahiti traditional outfits). The IFE is a bit ancient as it is not AVOD so you have to wait for the cycle to begin again. I watched mostly the route map. The choices include games and movies.

IFE monitor indicating 10 years of Tahiti Nui (TN) Remote and earphones for the IFE on TN :
Meals were served 50 minutes after take off and there were no peanuts or pretzels and drinks given out prior. The meals, though nicely presented with the new dishes that TN uses, were rather small in proportion and the dessert was nothing exciting, just yogurt. I chose the chicken which tasted ok especially since it was just warm and not exactly hot. The portion of the meal became important when you think that the other hot meal that you will get is not until a couple hours before arrival in LAX.
First meal served, chicken in pesto sauce :

The new design dish of TN :
In between meals, TN has food available for pax in galleys. However, I wondered if all pax bothered to do that, and if it was not just better to do the run so that everyone could get a sandwich, a soup, chips etc. that were available at the galleys. Soft drinks, juices etc were also available here. And the nice part is that they also had ice cream available, though in small cups so you had to grab a couple or go back often.
Ice cream, simple and no brand, but good nonetheless:Drink runs through the cabin were made by crews at frequent interval, though (water only).
The second meal was served at 9:30 pm Paris time (I bet those who did not go to the galleys for snacks were starving). I had the pasta which was better than the first meal. Again the dessert was nothing to write home about (or a blog about ?).
Second meal:
At 7:30 pm Paris time we were over Canada heading down toward Edmonton at a speed of 559 mph and at an altitude of 38000 feet. Then over Nevada I saw on the route map the city of Winnemucca (sp. ?)….a city I recognized from Armistead Maupin’s novel.
We started our descent at 10:50 Paris time and landed 30 minutes later and docked at gate 105 (or 106) of TBIT at 11:40 pm Paris time (14h40 LA time). It was a sunny 12 degrees C in LA, nice and warm after that grey cold of Paris.
Overall, the flight was good. I loved the seat and the service was good though the food was not that great (could be bigger portion and nicer dessert). Their presentation of the food was nice though with the new dishes they use that look at the same time modern but traditional.
Immigration was fast and was out with my bag not 15 minutes after we landed.

USA:
In between, I took flight with Southwest from SNA to OAK and from SFO to LAX. Southwest was fine: Both flights departed pretty much on time, seats were comfortable (indeed, very surprised by the pitch they have on their 737 700s) and we were served soft drinks for free (and peanuts on the SFO to LAX flight). The open seating was a bit strange though very organized nonetheless as you get assigned to groups that board one by one and you sit wherever you like (so, if you were in the last group, you will find mostly middle seats).

RETURN flight:
Date 31/12/2008
Flight: Air Tahiti Nui TN22, LAX (TBIT) - CDG (Terminal 2A)
STD : 11h45
STA: 07h45
Equipment : A340-300 “Rangiroa”

Check in at TBIT was fast. The counters opened 3 hours before departure and there was not too many pax checking in at that time. Of course it was also the 31st of December which means that we would spend new year’s eve on the plane. I asked for 45K again but was told that the seat has been taken (TN 22 actually started in Papeete and continued on to Paris from LA).
I had been assigned 42K but switched to 46D an aisle seat in the last middle set of 3 seats. I ended up having the whole row to myself though. I walked out to see the planes docked at TBIT between check in and boarding and saw 2 QF planes (Wanula dreaming and regular QF liveried planes), two Korean Air planes (777 and 744), LanChile (767 I think) docked there. My flight was assigned gate 108 which is one of the off terminal boarding gates. We had to take a bus there, then through a walkway going up and up to reach the jet-way and board the plane.
As usual, my bag was tagged and I had to drop it off at the bags drop off point. Went through security to get to the boarding area and was selected for additional check using the machine that you have to enter and take different positions (arms raised in front of you or arms extended and down in front of you) and finally cleared from there. In the boarding area, the boarding time announced previously (10H45) passed and we waited and waited. Finally an announcement was made that due to processing time of transit pax, boarding and departure would be late (All transit pax from Tahiti to France via LAX had to clear immigration in the US!).
Gate 108 at LAX :Finally at 11H50 pre boarding was announced, followed by general boarding 5 minutes later. The bus ride to the the boarding area was great as we had to traverse the vast LAX and got to see lots of airplanes (NH 773 which was beautiful and long, Air China 744, a TN sister ship, MH 744 and more QFs).
The plane was decorated with happy New Year banner at the galley right by the door where we boarded as well as at the rear galley. Later on, the crew donned party hats and gave party streamers to all pax. We did a count down to New Year en route (New year according to Paris time, so a couple hours after we took off).
Decorated galley for the New Year's eve : The crew on this flight was a good outgoing group. They were very attentive, friendly and in the mood to celebrate New year’s eve even with strangers (pax!). I have taken to their blue uniform decorated with the stylized Tiare flower (Again they changed en route to tradition dresses for the lady crews and traditional designed shirt for the men).
Flight time to Paris was announced as 10 hours and 30 minutes.

Pushback was at 12:35 LA time. Safety demonstration was done manually. During the long taxi, I could glimpse from the left window (I was seated on an aisle seat in the middle set of seats) the Qantas A380 that I had wanted to see in real for so long taxing to a terminal. Looked great from what I could glimpse from my seat.
After the long taxi, we took off at 12:58 after a close to 60 seconds roll.
Soon after, the crew gave each of the pax a Tahiti flower (Tiare) followed by amenity kits and menu. Then party streamers were given out! As NY was approaching according to Paris time (female pax also received a bright colored necklace). Then it was a drink service with pretzels.
Traditional tahiti flower given out to each pax :
The crew donned a party hat and started serving lunch. By this time we were over Wyoming flying at a speed of 951 km/h.
Not long after, a PA announced the countdown to New Year and every one threw their party streamers in the cabin…..
We flew over South Dakota and entered Canada (over Manitoba, then Ontario) and on over Hudson Bay (907 km/h at an altitude of 11277 m).
First meal TN 22 :
Main dish of the first meal, chicken in bbq sauce and rice which was quite good !!
Between meals, as usual, the galleys have food for pax: packets of Oreos, chips, pretzel and all kind of soft drinks and juices.
At one time, the pilot also walked the whole cabin to talk and to wish happy new year to pax !
At about 4 hours before reaching Paris, we were near the southern tip of Greenland.
Breakfast was served 2 hours before landing. Unfortunately, there was a technical problem as announced by the crew which meant that we did not have hot drinks, and I was so looking forward to having coffee after attempting unsuccessfully to sleep. Yet, I sure had the ideal condition for sleeping since I had the whole row of 3 seats to myself! (Attention for potential pax, certain seats would have a large IFE box so that you cannot put your feet let alone your luggage under the seat in front of you: these are seats A, L and for the middle rows the most right seat). To entertain myself after deciding not to try to sleep, I watched Hancock on the ptv and read my book.
Dreams from my Father (Barck Obama), great book!:Paris had lots of low clouds as we prepared to land and we could not see the ground until very close to touch down which was a bit scary. But the pilot made a very smooth landing and we touched down at 8:35 Paris time. People actually applauded as soon as we landed and oh how so smoothly despite the terrible weather outside (fog and low temperature of 0 degree celcius).
TN 22 plane resting in CDG after the long flight from LAX :
Overall, Air Tahiti Nui was great and I would fly them again (have just joined their frequent flyer program)....nice crew, nice seats etc.