Friday, October 5, 2007

Paris distractions: tv & Cinema

Buying a tv: the french way?
I decided to buy a television set mostly to improve my French. I figured that having images to accompany what I hear would greatly facilitate comprehension of French and my learning new French words when I first moved here. So, armed with my new carte bleue (What the French call their credit or debit card), I walked in to a department store, chose a tv and asked to have it delivered to my house. This, apparently, was not how most French people do it. They never have their tv delivered to their address (they give a false address when asked as is done when one buys a tv) and always pay cash! Why? Apparently to avoid the audiovisual tax that is imposed on all tv owners. I did not know this, but could later understand why they try to avoid it as the tax was not cheap (I think I have repaid the price of the tv just within a few years). There are apparently inspectors who would knock on your door to verify that indeed you did not have a tv in the house (if you claimed not to have one) or that you have paid your a/v tax…and they would come at ungodly hours such as 8 in the morning or dinner time making it difficult for people to hide their tv. A friend used to refuse to open her door for unannounced visits precisely because she feared tv inspectors. Once she hid behind her closed door after peeking through the peephole whilst the inspector rang and rang the bell and the sound of her tv blasting away and no doubt audible to the inspector. This scene apparently lasted a while before the inspector gave up and left! The recent change in law has however made this cat and mouse game much more difficult and serious. Now, we declare that fact that we have a tv on the income tax form (and pay it together with the residence tax applicable to all living here or taxe d’habitation. Yes, nothing is free in France) and the phrasing of the question (of whether you have a tv or not) was worded such that lying would be considered much more serious by law.

tv programmes
With just outside antenna, you get about 4 channels. TF1 is a station that I find rather conservative and show American and big production French films (The stations tend to show full length feature films right after the news that begins at 8pm). France 2 and France 3 are the public channels and show American, foreign and French films that may include independent production films and documentaries. Programmes are often split between these two stations. For instance, during the French open that is shown direct, in the early afternoon we watch it on France 2 and then move to France 3 in the late afternoon. There is also M6 which is probably the most American channel (among those accessible to all, not cable), showing many popular American series but dubbed in French as well as full length films. And finally, the French German channel called Arte that I thought has the most international and audacious programming of all channels. Arte is in French in France and in German in Germany. So, you may watch the news and the person was speaking German and this would be dubbed in French for French viewers (or vice versa). Cables have changed things of course, but my building did not even get cabled until 5 years ago!

French tv programmes were shockingly different to what I was used to in the US and to a significant degree, Australia. (Australia probably prepared me for France and in more ways than I realized, and made for a softer landing than if I were to move directly here from the US.) Whereas in the US evenings would be spent in front of one tv series after another of pure entertainment, in France there are lots of talk programmes. I am not talking about Oprah style talk shows, but discussion of serious topics such as politics and social issues. I find of course informative talks with people who are experts on the subject. However, often, talk shows have people that have nothing to do with the subject and who would discuss it as if they were the experts! In other words, we can see on tv what we say to each other over the dinner table. This is most curious as I care not to hear what a guy that came out of a reality tv show had to say about Presidential candidates, for instance. And sometimes they talk about nothing at all and just chat away as if they were discussing the most important subject on earth that should interest everyone. At times I felt like I was a voyeur in someone’s living room. Indeed, in everyday live the French is much more aware (and care) of political going ons in France and elsewhere compared to Americans (interesting to discuss it with friends, but not to watch it on tv). Politics, interpersonal problems and sex I think are the most debated subjects at dinners here.

On the other hand, the serious talk shows are excellent and do indeed inform with host or hostess that is sharp and does not mince words just to be nice. The host or hostess become celebrities in their own right, such as Christine Ockrent from France 3. Debates are real debates rather than polite exchange of opinions. This we find in everyday life as well. The Parisians and the French seem to appreciate those who stick to their opinion and may even be nasty about his or her beliefs more than those who were nice (and intelligent). Conflict does seem to be something that is perceived as necessary not only for an interesting conversation but, on a larger scale, for any changes in the society to take place. If I have the impression that the French seem to prefer status quo and avoid any changes, conflicts they love and see as legitimate means to start changes and resolutions. However, despite the agitations that may last a while and heated debates, in the end things stay the same.

french-speak on tv
Other curiosities on French television include the dubbing of almost all foreign films (including British and American films) in French. Public or private channels seem to stick to this practice pretty religiously, the exception being the French-German joint channel Arte who show films in their original language with subtitles. So, don’t get all excited when you see Desperate Housewives or Sex and the city listed in the tv programmes. Carrie, Sam, Charlotte and Amanda would be talking sex in French which to me had the same effect as listening to French rap a long time ago. Rap and French just did not seem to go together and to me it was like eating hamburger and French fries from a fastfood restaurant with a glass of good wine. I have overcome that now and have come to even appreciate French rap. But supposedly real NYers who get the jitters going outside Manhattan speaking French is still rather hard to swallow (not to mention, at that point for me, to literally understand what they said). Having finally gotten cable tv (more likely to show series in v.o. or version originale, that is in the original language) I was able to watch teva (said to be ‘feminin’ station, go figure). They showed Golden Girls in both French (early evening) and English (late at night)…frankly, Sophia and co seem to have acquired a different personality (i.e; were not half as funny) in French even when at that point I understood everything. I guess one cannot always translate the cultural references that the Golden Girls tend to make and take for granted nor the signification of regional accents and use of certain words (not easily translated, nor do they conjure up the same reaction or concept in people across the ocean….). I guess, I would have to ask myself how I could translate words such as Moxie (Blanche said, He said he liked my moxie) or just the concept that the name Shady Pines (or as Sophia says, the home) evokes in most Americans? Magnolia Queen (Blanche claimed she was one) was translated as Miss Mississippi (though the association is ok, I still wonder if it evoked the same image in the mind of the French!).

sex and tv
In contrast to their American counterparts, French tv stations are not at all shy about sex. I remember (on non cable channels at least) computerized masking of bare breasts etc. in American tv. Australian tv is less prudish (than American), but French tv takes the cake. Once 11 pm is past, you can see erotic films certain days (in which strangely, there is total nudity of the women but no frontal nudity of the men in these films). The station Arte often shows independent films that would contain total nudity of both men and women in regular feature length films or short features. Arte reminds me a lot of the SBS station in Australia (often called the Wog channel because of its ethnic or foreign orientation). PBS would probably be the closest though much paler American version of Arte.

cinema in Paris
Moving to the bigger screen, Parisians are avid movie goers. You can watch any significant movies ever made at any week in Paris (old or classic films may only be shown a couple of times a week, but they are shown still!). If you pick up the weekly guide listing movies playing in Paris, you will be amazed by the number of pages listing movie theatres (from the Cinema Complex with huge screen to small intimate theatres. Paris has hundreds of cinemas). New releases come out on Wednesdays and could be found in most mega complexes. There are also specialized theatres, playing independent production films or films of specific genre or language only. And there are theatres playing classic or non new releases which of course is a joy to one who only discovered the wonders of religiously going to cinema recently. New American films tend to come out about 6 months later than in the release date in the US. This might have something to do with dubbing. All films will be shown in VO (version originale, in English thus for American or British movies) at certain hours and in VF (version française, or dubbed in French) at other hours. Beware that titles might not be exact translation of that in English. Translation may be liberal and is adapted to the French. Having read and watched Harry Potter in French, I was most surprised to see that even names were translated (remember Wood who was captain of the Quidditch team? He is called Dubois or literal translation of the word wood in French!). Going to the cinema at about 10 euros a pop ain’t cheap, but still.

The theatre near Centre George Pompidou often shows foreign independent films that do not get the large distribution of Hollywood production films. To catch old classics or almost classics there are many small unassuming but charming independent theatres in the 6th arrodissement or the 5th toward Gobelin and Place Monge. My favourite theatres to catch new releases are in Jaurés (19th arrondissement). Indeed, even if these belong to a chain of movie theatres, the building and the site are worth the visit and a lot of planning seem to have taken place to ensure that the cinemas fit the particular character of the neighborhood. Hugging a canal with a building on each side (the two face each other across the canal), they were either a warehouse or an all purpose square nondescript building have been renovated and opened up with lots of glass instead of the original walls. There are cafés whose decoration reminds one of traditional Parisian cafes (and there is also a self service café for quick bites before films). Here you can sit in the café sipping your coffee and watching the boats on the canal and people passing by on foot, on bikes, or on rollerblades before catching your movie. Hey, la vie est belle !

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