Tuesday, February 26, 2013

A cheese sandwich anyone?

The French is the master of cuisine…..from the refined food that you find in Paris restaurants, to the traditional food that you find, well, in Paris restaurants (I must admit I have not spent much time in the province…or the country side of France). The superiority that the French feel over the Brits or Americans can partly indeed be attributed to the belief that French cuisine is way better than British. But there is one domain of food that I thought Americans do better : sandwiches. Sandwiches might have not be considered important or food in France, but in today’s world sandwiches are central to our busy life. We eat them for lunch because they are practical, fast and can even be consumed in front of the computer at the office. The French habit of taking a two hour lunch break eating at least 3 courses of lunch is becoming more rarely practiced these days. Most go out for a quick lunch and sandwiches of course are king for this kind of lunch. But French sandwiches are often so boring and unexciting. Baguettes with butter and slabs of ham (affectionately called jambon beurre) or cheeses or meat most likely. Forget about hot sandwiches. Americans, on the other hand, have been rushing through lunch for as long as I could remember, but they have also developed more interesting sandwiches that one can eat on one’s desk. Ruebens, hot pastrami or roast beef with melting cheese, hoagies etc. are things I used to love for lunch in the US. Try to get that in Paris… though indeed in the past few years, American like sandwich shops are starting to pop up here (mostly owned by expats). Now there are a few places where you could get hot bagels with pastrami, salmon or other fillings. You could also get hot roast beef sandwiches in a few places where you could also choose the bread. Can’t wait to be able to find them anywhere in Paris… ;I am sooo sick of dry baguette with a bit of butter and slices of sorry looking cheese.

Gay marriage in France, finally!

The minister of Justice Christiane Taubira
Finally, gays in France could marry (well, not yet, but the law passed assembly national and should, in theory, get the OK from the Senate). It was very interesting to watch the procedure to get the law passed in assembly national. The left majority proposed the law and the right attempted to block or to slow the proposed law. The right, in an effort to block, proposed no less than 5000 amendments to the proposed text on gay marriage. Some amendments were ridiculously out of this world such as to include allowing polygamy etc. just to slow the process of OK ing the law. The number of amendments made the text one of the most debated in history of France. The debate on the floor was also marked by verbal aggression, with lots of gesticulation. But I thought the minister who defended the law, Christiane Taubira (a Black French woman who hailed from French Guyana), was on top form and was able to respond convincingly. An amazing woman who delivered a moving opening speech of 40 minutes without looking at notes, who cited poems at will to make her points when attacked by the right. This has led her to be adopted by the gay community as their new icon (Taubiramania !!!!). The ‘discussion’ lasted close to five days including all night marathons (Great Britain passed the same law in one day in the House of commons). It is amazing really that France does not allow marriage for gay couples (though indeed we had something similar, like a civil union). In this respect we are behind South Africa, Portugal and Spain that do allow gay marriage. But now we have caught up, thank goodness. First gay marriage is expected in May or June. OK, now I just have to find a potential husband…

Saturday, February 23, 2013

Paris départ: Soweto Johannesburg

When I was visiting Johannesburg, I received plenty of warnings from South Africans in the hôtel to not go out walk alone, hail a taxi in the streets or go to certain areas. Ok, the last one is probably useful, but the other warnings I felt were exaggerated and a bit paranoid on the part of these well-meaning people. So, one evening I took the train (Gautrain) to go to another suburb, granted the suburb where I was and the one I was going to were considered rich and safe. But I did walk the streets at night among the masses (that curiously almost exclusively Blacks, the Whites were in cars zipping quickly pass) and not once did I get murdered, robbed or attacked. One area I wanted to visit was Soweto. The image of Soweto as poor is probably what most of us have. That’s true and not true. Soweto is huge and like many places in South Africa, présents a huge discrepancy between rich and poor. You will be surprised to discover the rich Soweto (or the Beverly Hills area of Soweto). Beautiful houses that would be considered rich even in Los Angeles line some streets. What’s more surprising, these houses did not have fences and electronic protection like what we find in rich suburbs in Johannesburg. Yet, not very far from there, we also find very poor living areas where people live in cardboard boxes. Soweto I found out was not some Zulu name, but actually short for South Western Township, created when Blacks were forced to move from their houses in Johannesburg during Apartheid. Today, Soweto pulls the tourists visiting Johannesburg with its muséums, including the Mandela house and Hector Pieterson museum. It is probably the only town that has produced two Nobel Prize winners who both lived in the same street !

Friday, February 22, 2013

Flying the A380 to Johannesburg: trip report

A380 of AirFrance
Air France, flight AF 990 Paris CDG to Johannesburg OR Tambo JNB Flying time: 9 hours 50 minutes Equipment: A380 (JG) Seat: 27C (aisle, last row of the first cabin of Economy) This was going to be a quick work trip to Johannesburg from Paris. Tickets were bought just a couple of days before departure so were rather expensive. On the day of departure, I checked in on the web. Unfortunately, no aisle seat was left on the upper deck. AF has a few rows of Y seats on the upper deck and represents probably my only chance of sitting in the upper deck (the others only put business there). So, I settled for 27C in the main deck. At CDG 2E, the bagage drop off line was so long and I spent about 30 minutes waiting before I was able to drop my small suitcase. The common check in means we are checking in with pax going to Mexico City, to China (forgot which city) etc. So, lots of people. The AF agent who checked people before entering the check in area could have been more friendly, more efficient, and more proactive I thought. Used the automated passport control so was quick for me, but the line for regular passport control was huge! Since the flight departs from gates L, this meant that we had to take the train or the bus to these gates which took quite a bit of time on the bus. Arriving at the L gates, we went through security and entered the beautiful terminal (nice architecture, nice shops…and surprise, there is even a smoking lounge. Well, lounge is a bit of a misnomer…it’s a very small glass enclosed box. But at least it’s there for the smokers before a long flight). This terminal really is nice and spacious. You could buy water here too (After I had to give up my bottle of water at security). Boarding started a bit later than indicated but went fairly quickly (I was worried as I have noticed that there are lots of delays with this flight on flight tracker). Was seated in my seat at 23h05. At first, the seats felt OK, but all those stories I heard about them being uncomfortable turned out to be true. True there was sufficient space for your legs, but I found that it was very difficult to find a comfortable position after a while and thus only slept for an hour or two during the flight (That said, my seat mates slept at least for 8 hours straight!). The footrest was not helping either as it was bare metal and you feet slip off easily. The crew for tonight’s flight was professional. There was a pax in my area who boarded late with huge bags that were so heavy. Though the crew pointed out spaces available they did not help the pax put the bag up (this is AF regulation?). Finally boarding was completed. The plane was fully packed (same on the return flight with only a few seats open). Captain got on the speaker at 23h23 and announced a flying time of 9 hours 50 minutes which is expected to be fairly smooth all the way except for minor turbulences when we cross the equator, after welcoming us on board. We pushed back at 23h35and started the long journey for take off. Take off roll was 45 seconds. As usual, the take off was very quiet and you barely know that the plane has lifted off. After the seatbelt sign was turned off, menu was distributed by the crew, followed by headphone. AF does not turn on their PTV until pushback (unlike EK), and then it was only the tail camera available(you cannot access other contents). Once on air, PTV was functioning fully. Dinner was then served. So, this was a pretty late dinner and I was very hungry. The food was ok, though the bread was not warmed (I thought AF would do that. EK does or did). During the night, crew walked around with drinks for pax who did not sleep. Before landing, breakfast was served. We landed at JNB on time and made our way to gate. It was a long walk from the gate to passport control. JNB is huge. Parked around the tarmac were South African planes, obviously, but also Lufthansa A380, BA 747 etc. Passport control was quick, despite the long lines (separated in SA or foreign passports). SA used to require two blank pages in your passport for visa…now, they only put a small sticker and mine was stuck in a page already stamped with other visa (Immigration officer was very efficient). In baggage claim, my bag came out pretty quickly and I went out of the custom area. I had to exchange money first and this took forever. I don’t know why they have to make copies of passport, fill out form make photo copies etc etc for every client. I only exchanged 50 euros but it took a good half hour to do it. All in all, it was a pleasant flight. The seat in Y was not comfortable though. I have flown EK A380 and always managed to sleep and able to find a comfortable position (yet I think the Y seats in both airlines are pitched at 32 inches….so, don’t know what the difference is).

Paris départ: Pretoria

So, unexpectedly I got this job offer in Pretoria, South Africa. My Parisian friends were happy, they would want to come visit me on vacation if I did decide to move. My Australian and British friends were less enamored….Pretoria ? Are you mad ? This because they have very strong idea that there is nothing but crime in any South African city. I thought that too, until I went and visited Pretoria and Johannesburg myself. First, I had to spend more than 10 hours on an A380 to reach Johannesburg from Paris. Arrived at Tambo airport, I was impressed by the size of the airport and the variety of airlines companies that serve JNB. The immigration was rapid and painless (contrary to what people tell me that everything is slower in Africa including South Africa). But wait, even though I made it out in 10 minutes to the public part of the airport, I was probably too quick in saying things are very speedy in South Africa. I had to change money. This took forever as you had to stay in line that barely moved, and then, for mysterious reasons, there are complicated paperwork involved in changing just 50 euros ! First I had to complete a form of which the agent made copies for me and to keep. Next, my passport had to be photocopied. Next they had to go somewhere to get the cash in Rand for my measly 50 euros. All in all, about half hour for the transaction. But I walked out of there richer with Rand. Next the drive to Pretoria which was speedy since it was past rush hours (apparently trafic is horrible during rush hours). You may be thinking you’re in Los Angeles than in Johannesburg SA. Stretches of freeways cutting hills that are somewhat dry (it was end of winter), but all very modern and California looking. Half hour later I arrived in Pretoria. This is where I noticed that I was perhaps not in Los Angeles. Streets with trees that look tranquil (the streets, not the trees), but you don’t get to see the houses as many had tall cément fences with electronic protection. My BB was a beautiful grand house with a front yard that I associate with rich English homes. But you’d never know it from the street. To enter, I had to activate an electrical button that came with my keys to open the electronic gate. And when you sit in the front garden, you cannot see the street because of the fences. This gives you a feeling of being separated from the others somewhat, no connection to the outside world like. I wanted to go downtown that evening, but the south africans I met scared me enough to make me abandon the plan (they said I would never make it back if I go to downtown by myself in the evening !). I walked instead to a mall not far from my BB. Malls seem to be the center of activities where you do your shopping, go to cafés or restaurants. The same in Johannesburg (just an hour drive from Pretoria). Wanting to walk around, the people at the hôtel showed their horror réaction when I told them I was going to walk. They offered to call a taxi when I said I would hail a taxi on the street (which evoked again collective horror). I was beginning to suspect that these people were scaring me more than necessary. So, armed with an American friend who also knew no better, we took off from Rosebank using the ultramodern Gautrain (High speed train) to Sandton. Again, a mall with great shops, restaurant, cinémas etc. But I was becoming malled out and wanted just to walk around where there are shops and cafés etc. But that was not to be, things seem to revolve around mall where you drive to and do your things. We took the train back, crossing many many people on the streets who all seemed to be black and who gave us friendly smiles. We made it back to the hôtel in one pièce and started thinking that maybe I should listen less and just do what I want to do as long as I am being vigilant. Like I would be vigilant when I walk around in Los Angeles, San Francisco or Sydney !!

Paris or Pretoria?

Many say they envy me for living in Paris…I used to agree that living in Paris is great. But like anywhere else, once you have lived long enough in a place, you start noticing all the things that bug you and you may get itchy feet to be elsewhere. Even Pretoria. Recently I received a work offer from a company in Pretoria, South Africa. I actually thought about it for ages, trying to come to a very life changing décision of leaving Paris and moving there. I wanted to leave Paris because at times I was beginning to think that all the beauty that surrounds me in Paris was not worth the hardship associated with living in Paris (especially the crowd, the prices, the stress etc). It takes more and more effort to enjoy Paris, for me. But is South Africa a good destination to start a new life ? I could imagine being very happy there as much as I could imagine being unhappy. Happy with the weather. Happy with being in a country truly multicultural. Unhappy with having to live with security home system. Unhappy with the economic situation that is exemplified by the discrepancy between the rich and the poor. One thing I noticed during my visit is that people looked happier in Pretoria and J-burg than those in Paris. Despite the fear of crime, despite the fact that many looked poor or poorer than what we see in Paris. I attribute it to Black culture, this happiness. And you know what, it’s probably Paris attitude that makes me so negative at the moment. So, back to decision making....Paris or Pretoria?